That is the question my son asked me the other day while we were out on the road. The tree in question appeared to have blown over. From what I could see it appeared to have been planted with a tree spade directly, not balled and burlapped. I assumed this from the exposed roots I saw. It did not appear to have been staked.

I then began to wonder how many people would not know what to do if such a situation occurred in their yards. The biggest problem is that roots are exposed. The ground is frozen in our area so the tree cannot be righted until spring. The best course of action would be to protect the exposed roots. A heavy layer of mulch needs to be placed over them. Straw would be a good choice this time of the year. Leaves or grass clippings would also work if they are available. The point is to insulate the exposed roots from constant freeze and thaw cycles.

The tree should be straightened in the spring as soon as weather permits. The sooner it is straightened, the better the chances for survival are. There is a chance it still may not survive the disruptions. Your chances are much improved by following this advice.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

I went to try and move those three Sassafras trees today. I had planned on doing it last week.
http://www.blogsmonroe.com/backyard/?p=423

I had been concerned that their proximity to a very large oak tree would make it difficult or impossible to move them. I thought there may be problems with the larger oak roots interfering with digging them.

I was surprised with what I found when I tried to dig them. The sandy soil would not even begin to form a root ball. The small trees did not have much of a root system. There was just one large root growing straight into the ground. Because of this I could not remove enough of the roots to allow a successful transplant. The roots from the oak were not a problem at all.

The trees will remain where they are. Careful pruning will allow the trees to grow near the oak for quite some time. Had the trees been moved they would not have survived. That was certainly not the result we wanted.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

Tomorrow I plan on moving three trees. They are Sassafras trees that are growing near another large tree. The trees came up on their own so they are not necessarily in ideal locations. The homeowners are having me come in to relocate them to other spots in their yard. My ball cart and wheelbarrow are loaded on the trailer. A spade and shovel have been sharpened and are ready to go. Burlap, twine and pruners are just a few of the other things I’ll be loading up in the morning before I leave.

I am hoping it will be an uneventful day. My only concern is the proximity to the large tree. The large roots of the big tree may make it difficult or even impossible to move the trees successfully. That is something I will not be certain of until I get there and get started. I will post an update when I am finished tomorrow.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

We have recently spoke of digging trees. We now need to discuss planting them. Whether you’re planting trees you have dug from your yard or bought from a nursery, the same steps apply.

Balled and burlapped plants (B&B):

The first thing to remember is to use care when moving B&B plants. While a damaged root ball does not automatically mean the worst, it pays to be careful. A solid, undamaged root ball gives a better chance of survival.

The first thing to do is dig the hole. The hole should be slightly wider than the root ball but no deeper. If you are planting in heavy or poorly drained soil, it is advisable to to pant the root ball a few inches above grade. The hole does not need to be more than a foot wider all around. In some cases even that wide is not practical. You just need enough room to backfill the hole properly. I don’t advise digging a hole too deep. Measure carefully as you dig. A hole dug too deep will need to be filled in. The weight of the root ball could cause it to sink. It would then be planted too deep. If you must fill in the bottom of the hole, pea stone is a good choice. It will compact well and the root ball should not sink.

Put the tree in the hole and position as you desire. The key to a successful planting is to keep a solid root ball. Only remove the string from the root ball if it is not biodegradable. If the tree is in a wire basket leave it in place. If there is biodegradable rope around the trunk it can be left as well. Just monitor the tree’s growth to be sure it causes no problems. It can be removed later if it begins to interfere with trunk growth. All of this material will degrade, but helps to hold the root ball tightly in the meantime. If you plant in an area that receives high winds staking would be advised.

Compost can be mixed with the existing soil for backfilling the planting hole. I like to bring bring out the garden hose and let water run slowly into the hole. Backfill the hole and pack the soil as you go. The water helps to keep any air pockets out of the soil in the hole. Turn the water off before the hole overfills. Use the extra soil to create a catch basin around the root ball. This will aid in watering later. The soil can also be used to blend the grade if you are planting the tree a little high. The area of the basin can then be mulched.

Container plants and field potted:

Plants grown in containers follow the same basic ideas. The holes won’t have to be as wide though. Remove the plant from its pot and look at the roots. If the roots are very thick and tangled they can be torn free some to encourage spreading.

Field potted are plants grown in a field but rather than being balled and burlapped they and put in biodegradable pots. They can be planted pot and all. I will sometimes break off the thick top collar when the plant is in place. This seems to allow the plant to accept water better when the catch basin is made.

Please feel free to ask if you have any other questions. I’ll be happy to help.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

In the next week or so I will be moving three trees. They are in the backyard of a home where they grew way too close to a much larger tree. I’ll be reporting all the details of the move after it has been completed. I’ll try to post some photos as well.

The reason I mentioned this now is because we are at the point where trees and shrubs can safely be transplanted around your yard. The temperatures have cooled off and there is some moisture in the ground. Most deciduous plants are ready for a transplant by the time their leaves turn color. If you are concerned about moisture, you can water the plant heavily a day or two before the move.

When moving a plant you are simply trying to move it while taking a large majority of the roots and surrounding soil with it. In doing so it it is best to keep the root ball undisturbed, not letting it crack or break. Having trouble with the root ball does not mean the plant will die. It is just best to be as careful as possible.

A few guidelines to follow are as follows:

When moving a deciduous tree allow 12″ of root ball for every 1″ of trunk diameter measured at 12″ from the ground.
When moving small shrubs try to make the root ball as large a diameter as the spread of the branches if possible. This can be impractical at times. Sometimes you just need to get a feel for how wide the roots have spread and go from there.
When moving an evergreen follow the same guidelines as with deciduous trees.

Note: There are times with both evergreens and deciduous trees that the trunks can be overly large in comparison to the size of the tree. In that case you may be able to dig a smaller root ball.

The first step in digging you desired plant is to tie up any branches that may be in the way. This is especially true with evergreens and shrubs. You can then mark the outline of the root ball in the ground. Use a sharp spade to slice down all around the outline. Hold the spade straight up and down or at a slight angle in toward the root ball. After that is done dig a trench around the tree just outside the spade cut. Do not chop at any large roots as this will jar the root ball. Cut large roots with a pruner or saw. Continue this process until you have dug below the root system. This will only be a few shovels deep on most plants you can move by yourself. As you are digging you can begin to shape the root ball. Begin by shaving the outer edge of the ball to round it. As you dig deeper taper the root ball down. You are trying to create a shape similar to a turnip.

After the root ball is dug and shaped it is time to burlap it. Burlap can be found at garden centers, home improvement stores and nurseries. Wrap the burlap tightly over the top and sides of the root ball. Cutting a slit part way through a piece works well to place it across the top. The slit allows it to pass around the trunk of the plant. Nurseries will use pinning nails or string and a large needle to secure the burlap tight. At home you can use biodegradable twine to just tie the burlap very tightly around the ball. This is very important as the burlap holds th roots and soil in place. After that is complete you can use a larger biodegradable sting to rope the ball tightly. Start at the bottom and loop the string around bottom of the ball. Draw the string up in a slip knot and wrap the loose end around the trunk. Then take the end and lace it under the rope at the bottom and bring it back around the trunk. Continue this until a basket has been created out of twine. Tie it securely and your tree is ready to be moved.

Carefully lean the plant to one side to break it free of the soil at the bottom. You may want to cover the bottom with burlap to prevent soil loss there. The plant can then be removed from its hole by being lifted out. Another way is to begin filling the hole in while the plant is on its side. Carefully flip the tree to the higher side of the hole and repeat until it is out of the hole. Be certain the ropes and burlap are still tight. Tighten them if necessary. Your freshly balled and burlapped plant will be ready for its new location.

I’ll be posting planting instructions very soon. Please feel free to ask if you have any questions regarding any specific tree moving projects.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

Now is the time to prune/shape the Pine, Spruce or Fir trees that may be growing in your yard.

The first thing to remember when pruning is to do it safely. You can prune these evergreens with a hand pruner, but a pruning knife [or machete] makes the job much faster. A pole pruner comes in handy for the larger ones. I’ll go into more detail at the end.

When pruning, remember that you only want to make cuts on the current year’s growth. You can identify the fresh growth as it is usually softer and a slightly different color. If you cut back into the old growth the tree will not develop new buds. By cutting back the new growth you cause the the to produce multiple buds at the cut. This will produce a fuller tree.

The other important aspect in pruning these trees is the top. The tops on many trees will grow much taller than they should for a nice appearance. The reason for this is the top of the tree produces the next whorl of branches. If the height is too great it gives the tree a thin open shape. A good rule is not to leave a top over twelve inches long.

Sometimes evergreens will produce multiple tops. All should be removed but one. Leave the straightest, most central one.

If the top or tops are crooked a splint technique will straighten it. A branch from a lower whorl can even be used if the top is damaged.

Note: Repair the crooked top before you remove any extra tops. That way if the top gets damaged you have another option.

Eventually the trees become too big to prune. At this point we can just hope they have a nice shape. I do make an effort to remove multiple tops for as long as possible. A pole pruner works well for this.

As I have already mentioned, a hand pruner will work, but a knife is much more efficient. Here’s a basic instruction on knife pruning: If you’re right handed, raise the knife overhead as if you’re trying to touch your left ear with your hand. Swing down and away toward your right. Do the opposite if you’re left handed. Remember you’re trying to form a cone shape. A straight up and down chop will leave the tree with flat sides.

I can’t stress enough- Please be careful. Using a knife to prune does a wonderful job, but care must be taken not to injure yourself.

I have a scar on my left thumb from a lack of concentration while pruning.

I’ll see you in the backyard!