I have found many signs of life from my plants in the last few days. The Clematis are already anxiously reaching for the trellis. The Butterfly Bushes are showing a substantial amount of growth. The Raspberries look absolutely wonderful this year. Everything seemed to weather the winter months very well. All the perennials are showing signs of life.

The Tiger Lilies are out in full force already. Just last weekend I traded some of them for some Irises and a few other plants. I may be moving a Rose of Sharon out of a landscape bed soon. I am still debating whether it is staying or going. The decision will be soon since I need to dig it before it leafs out. If I move it I will be posting photos of the process.

I will be setting the pond up for the season shortly. If the garden does not dry out soon it may be done earlier than I planned. I had hoped to plant most of my early garden crops first. There always seems to be plenty to do, no matter what the weather gives me. It will not be long before we are all hoping for rain.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

I planted the boxwood plants today. That is one more thing I won’t have to worry about as the weather turns colder. I was given about nine boxwoods growing in one gallon pots. They were too big for the small pots and were tall and spindly. Their root systems were pretty well exceeding the space available in their containers.

I filled three large pots with compost and planted three plants per container after loosening up their root systems. Planting the three together gives the appearance of a fuller plant. The pots will be mulched in until spring. I will keep the plants in the containers and use them as patio plants.

Planting multiple plants together is a good way to make sad looking plants look a little healthier. This only works with plants that do not look strange when growing with multiple stems.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

It may be a bit early to be thinking about Christmas trees. But if you are thinking of buying a tree that can then be planted in the yard, now is a very good time.

The thing to remember about these live trees is that they can only spend a limited time indoors. When they are indoors, they must be kept in a cooler area of the home. It will need to spend a few days in a garage or other place out of the extreme weather. It can then be brought in for four or five days. I would not advise much longer unless it is in a very cool room. It then will need to be moved back to the area you brought it in from to re-acclimate it to the colder weather. This is a great way to add extra trees to your yard at less cost to you. You are using the same tree twice. Just remember trees are heavy and it takes a lot of work to move them. A watertight container will be needed to keep the roots moist while it is indoors.

If you think this type of tree is right for you the planning can begin now. It will need to be planted after the holiday. Now is a very good time to decide where you want to plant the tree after it has been used as your Christmas tree. After a spot is found it may be worth an early trip to a local nursery. You may be able to pre-order your tree. Most importantly you can find out the size and weight of the root ball. This will aid you in finding an appropriate sized container. It will also tell you what size hole you will need to plant the tree.

The hole size is important because you may want to dig the hole early while the ground is not frozen. The soil from the hole can be stored in a garage or other place where it will not freeze. This makes planting the tree much easier. Do not forget to cover the open hole with plywood or other suitable material. You won’t want anyone to fall in it and injure themselves.

If you do not want to dig the hole early, just be sure to cover the planting area with a thick layer of straw to insulate the soil from the cold.

When planting your tree, it still may be necessary to water it after it has been planted. Staking may be required if the tree will receive a lot of wind. Be sure to mulch your newly planted tree.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

It is time to think about planting fall bulbs. They can be a wonderful addition to the spring landscape. They are simple to plant and easy to maintain.

Prepare the area and plant the bulbs to the correct depth. The correct depth will vary depending on the type of bulb you plant. Check the bulb packaging due to this variance. The bulbs should be planted pointed side up. If you have any questions, a bulb planted on its side will usually find its way to the surface. The area can be prepared simply by working the soil up with a shovel. A tiller will work well for larger areas. When the bulbs are planted the area can be mulched for the winter. The bulbs should be watered in and they are ready to overwinter.

All that is left is to sit back and wait for those first blooms. After a long winter they are a welcomed sight. I will add more information on spring maintenance as it becomes relevant.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

We have recently spoke of digging trees. We now need to discuss planting them. Whether you’re planting trees you have dug from your yard or bought from a nursery, the same steps apply.

Balled and burlapped plants (B&B):

The first thing to remember is to use care when moving B&B plants. While a damaged root ball does not automatically mean the worst, it pays to be careful. A solid, undamaged root ball gives a better chance of survival.

The first thing to do is dig the hole. The hole should be slightly wider than the root ball but no deeper. If you are planting in heavy or poorly drained soil, it is advisable to to pant the root ball a few inches above grade. The hole does not need to be more than a foot wider all around. In some cases even that wide is not practical. You just need enough room to backfill the hole properly. I don’t advise digging a hole too deep. Measure carefully as you dig. A hole dug too deep will need to be filled in. The weight of the root ball could cause it to sink. It would then be planted too deep. If you must fill in the bottom of the hole, pea stone is a good choice. It will compact well and the root ball should not sink.

Put the tree in the hole and position as you desire. The key to a successful planting is to keep a solid root ball. Only remove the string from the root ball if it is not biodegradable. If the tree is in a wire basket leave it in place. If there is biodegradable rope around the trunk it can be left as well. Just monitor the tree’s growth to be sure it causes no problems. It can be removed later if it begins to interfere with trunk growth. All of this material will degrade, but helps to hold the root ball tightly in the meantime. If you plant in an area that receives high winds staking would be advised.

Compost can be mixed with the existing soil for backfilling the planting hole. I like to bring bring out the garden hose and let water run slowly into the hole. Backfill the hole and pack the soil as you go. The water helps to keep any air pockets out of the soil in the hole. Turn the water off before the hole overfills. Use the extra soil to create a catch basin around the root ball. This will aid in watering later. The soil can also be used to blend the grade if you are planting the tree a little high. The area of the basin can then be mulched.

Container plants and field potted:

Plants grown in containers follow the same basic ideas. The holes won’t have to be as wide though. Remove the plant from its pot and look at the roots. If the roots are very thick and tangled they can be torn free some to encourage spreading.

Field potted are plants grown in a field but rather than being balled and burlapped they and put in biodegradable pots. They can be planted pot and all. I will sometimes break off the thick top collar when the plant is in place. This seems to allow the plant to accept water better when the catch basin is made.

Please feel free to ask if you have any other questions. I’ll be happy to help.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

In the next week or so I will be moving three trees. They are in the backyard of a home where they grew way too close to a much larger tree. I’ll be reporting all the details of the move after it has been completed. I’ll try to post some photos as well.

The reason I mentioned this now is because we are at the point where trees and shrubs can safely be transplanted around your yard. The temperatures have cooled off and there is some moisture in the ground. Most deciduous plants are ready for a transplant by the time their leaves turn color. If you are concerned about moisture, you can water the plant heavily a day or two before the move.

When moving a plant you are simply trying to move it while taking a large majority of the roots and surrounding soil with it. In doing so it it is best to keep the root ball undisturbed, not letting it crack or break. Having trouble with the root ball does not mean the plant will die. It is just best to be as careful as possible.

A few guidelines to follow are as follows:

When moving a deciduous tree allow 12″ of root ball for every 1″ of trunk diameter measured at 12″ from the ground.
When moving small shrubs try to make the root ball as large a diameter as the spread of the branches if possible. This can be impractical at times. Sometimes you just need to get a feel for how wide the roots have spread and go from there.
When moving an evergreen follow the same guidelines as with deciduous trees.

Note: There are times with both evergreens and deciduous trees that the trunks can be overly large in comparison to the size of the tree. In that case you may be able to dig a smaller root ball.

The first step in digging you desired plant is to tie up any branches that may be in the way. This is especially true with evergreens and shrubs. You can then mark the outline of the root ball in the ground. Use a sharp spade to slice down all around the outline. Hold the spade straight up and down or at a slight angle in toward the root ball. After that is done dig a trench around the tree just outside the spade cut. Do not chop at any large roots as this will jar the root ball. Cut large roots with a pruner or saw. Continue this process until you have dug below the root system. This will only be a few shovels deep on most plants you can move by yourself. As you are digging you can begin to shape the root ball. Begin by shaving the outer edge of the ball to round it. As you dig deeper taper the root ball down. You are trying to create a shape similar to a turnip.

After the root ball is dug and shaped it is time to burlap it. Burlap can be found at garden centers, home improvement stores and nurseries. Wrap the burlap tightly over the top and sides of the root ball. Cutting a slit part way through a piece works well to place it across the top. The slit allows it to pass around the trunk of the plant. Nurseries will use pinning nails or string and a large needle to secure the burlap tight. At home you can use biodegradable twine to just tie the burlap very tightly around the ball. This is very important as the burlap holds th roots and soil in place. After that is complete you can use a larger biodegradable sting to rope the ball tightly. Start at the bottom and loop the string around bottom of the ball. Draw the string up in a slip knot and wrap the loose end around the trunk. Then take the end and lace it under the rope at the bottom and bring it back around the trunk. Continue this until a basket has been created out of twine. Tie it securely and your tree is ready to be moved.

Carefully lean the plant to one side to break it free of the soil at the bottom. You may want to cover the bottom with burlap to prevent soil loss there. The plant can then be removed from its hole by being lifted out. Another way is to begin filling the hole in while the plant is on its side. Carefully flip the tree to the higher side of the hole and repeat until it is out of the hole. Be certain the ropes and burlap are still tight. Tighten them if necessary. Your freshly balled and burlapped plant will be ready for its new location.

I’ll be posting planting instructions very soon. Please feel free to ask if you have any questions regarding any specific tree moving projects.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

I was planning on picking up a few mums this weekend to add some fall color to the yard. But it’s raining now and is expected to continue through the weekend. Planting may be on hold, but this gives me a great opportunity to offer up some tips and advice on getting the most from your plants.

When purchasing mums there a a few things to remember. Try not to purchase plants that are in full bloom. It’s much nicer if they begin their bloom in your yard where you have more time to enjoy them. Pay close attention to the flower buds. If they look dried out and shriveled, choose a different plant. Be certain the soil is moist and not dry. Another thing to consider is the container. Some are sold in decorative containers. We’re paying extra for those. If you have no intention to keep the plants in those containers (you’re planting them ) look for plants in a simpler pot.

Mums will grow in any average soil but will appreciate the addition of some compost. Well drained soil is necessary for the plant’s growth and the ability to survive the winter successfully. Regular fall watering is necessary if the season is dry.

Mums should be lightly mulched to help prevent multiple freeze/thaw cycles. But don’t mulch too heavily as the plants may suffocate. It is just necessary to mulch the soil under the plant and an area around it. Don’t mulch up over the plant’s stems and foliage. Shredded leaves are a good material to use as mulch. The plants may also be aided by the installation of a burlap covering at the end of the season. This will help protect them from damaging winter winds.

If all goes well the hardy mums should survive the winter. The spring will tell us if our work was successful. The plants will then have all year to grow and add even more color to next fall’s landscape. After a few growing seasons the plants will be large enough to be divided and separated. But we’ll discuss that in the spring when it’s more appropriate.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

I was not sure what I would find when arriving home today after being away. I had heard the stories of the heavy rain and storms that hit the area. I was anticipating at least some minor damage or problems.

My vegetable garden weathered the storm nicely. The worst I could find was some Indian corn bent over. The soil is still very wet but I hope to be able to straighten those few stalks tomorrow. Adding soil to the base of the plants should be enough to hold the straightened stalks upright. Everything seems to have doubled in size.

It never ceases to amaze me how much things seem to grow while I’m away. The new perennials are thriving and blooming. The only landscape related damage from the weather was just a few more sticks down in the yard.

I did have one nice surprise while walking through the yard deciding it would be a day or so before it would dry up enough to get anything done. I did it while snacking on some of the first black raspberries to ripen this season.

I’ll see you in the backyard!

The weather has warmed and summer is here. Our plants are thriving, or at least we hope they are. Now we have to be on the lookout for damaging insects and other problems.

Some damage is very evident. Other problems may be harder to spot. I like to just stroll around the yard and garden looking for bugs or evidence of their damage, if any.

Once the pests or their damage is found, steps can be taken to solve the problem.

An active approach helps keep our yards and gardens pest free. Many plant diseases, if present, can also be found early. This makes them much easier to deal with.

Observation is key. You may even want to keep a notebook of your observations. This is a great way to follow trends from year to year. As years go by you’ll be able to look ahead to potential problems.

I’ll see you in the backyard!